The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Les Fairendes is seamless and charming, revealing aromas of white flowers, peach, crisp yellow orchard fruit and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit and lively acids, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish. No shipping outside EU Stored in underground cellar. Every time I open a bottle of Germain, I find myself wondering whether I'm sufficiently vocal in my admiration for this estate, a winery that I have regularly characterized as Meursualt's most underrated domaine. Several superb mature Germain wines will be reviewed in the next Burgundy-themed installment of "Up From the Cellar," which I hope will give readers who haven't had the pleasure at least a vicarious sense of the rewards of patience at this address—and of just how long Jean-François Germain and his family have been producing superb wine. But what of the 2020s? In short, they're exceptional. Yields were good ("if someone offered me a deal whereby every vintage would work out like this, I wouldn't hesitate to sign on the dotted line," said Germain), and the wines are concentrated, chiseled and beautifully balanced. They're worth a special effort to seek out.