ON OFFER 2017 Volnay 1° Cru "Santenots du Milieu" - Domaine des Comtes Lafon with good critics scores. In Meursault, there is one estate that stands out among its peers, both for the quality of its production and for the worldwide fame that ensues: the Domaine des Comtes Lafon. Born at the end of the 19th century on the initiative of Jules Lafon, a wealthy amateur, the house is now run by his great-grandson, Dominique Lafon, with the greatest respect for family traditions, and covers thirteen designations. Viticulture, which for a long time tended to preserve the environment, has been officially certified "organic" since 1998, coupled with the essential principles of biodynamics. The particularity of Santenots-du-Milieu is to be located entirely in the municipality of Meursault. In white, the wine takes the name of Meursault and in red of Volnay. Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu from Comtes Lafon is a very colourful, rich and deep wine, endowed with a beautiful tannic presence and a remarkable elegance on the finish. It demonstrates all the know-how of the estate in red. The plots of this cuvée were purchased in several installments by Jules Lafon (Dominique's great-grandfather and founder of the estate). PROFESSIONAL RATINGS 95 points Decanter The domaine's holdings of Santenots are sizeable at 3.9ha, although the younger vines are used to make Dominique Lafon's village Volnay. This richer, denser, sappier wine has subtle reduction with some spice and texture from 10% whole bunches, accompanied by filigree tannins and a core of plum and dark cherry fruit. 94 points Vinous The 2017 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru was opened by Dominique Lafon just because he wanted to compare with the ensuing two vintages. Who was I to stop him? It is very different in style from those vintages: redder fruit, more transparency, charming, and it wears its heart on its sleeve. The palate is full of slightly peppery red berry fruit, saline and spicy with good grip and a long raspberry and wild strawberry finish. So unbelievably drinkable, even at this early stage you’ll finish bottle. ( 93 points Burghound A super-fresh if somewhat brooding nose is comprised by notes of essence of red pinot fruit, spice and lavender that really helped from being in a decanter for 30 minutes first. The succulent and reasonably concentrated medium weight flavors exude a subtle minerality before concluding in a compact, powerful, complex and impressively persistent finish. This seems to have put on weight since I last reviewed it and I like the overall sense of harmony and balance. In sum, this is evolving nicely though I underscore that it still needs at least another 5 or so years. In a word, lovely. 93 points Jasper Morris Clear mid crimson colour. Excellent definition to the fruit, pure and poised, with medium plus intensity. A fine sense of nobility in this distinguished wine which as yet remains discreet. 93 points Wine Advocate The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu confirms its strong showing from barrel, soaring from the glass with scents of ripe cherries, red berries, rose petals, orange rind and a deft touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with melting tannins, succulent acids and a charming, supple profile that makes it hard to resist. 92+ points John Gilman The 2017 Santenots du Milieu chez Lafon was the only wine that was a whisper grumpy at the time of my visit, as it was a touch reductive. But, with a bit of swirling, it opened up nicely to show scents of plums, pomegranate, black cherries, woodsmoke, fresh thyme, gamebird, espresso, a complex base of dark soil tones and cedar. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and quite soil-driven, with a good core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and a long, tangy and nascently complex finish. This is going to be lovely and is quite reminiscent of the 1985 when it was young and I had the good fortune to drink it with a bit of regularity. Jancis Robinson Lafon had 4 ha (10 acres) out of the 8 ha that constitute the appellation – this is their biggest cuvée (three big tanks). Not blended before barrelling. Barrels mostly 1–2 years old plus one-third new. He doesn’t include any stems in his Beaune reds. Deep and spicy red fruit and a bit more savoury than the Champans. A touch of smoky char. Magnificently fine silky tannins. So, so fine. Dominique Lafon says that this vintage fits well with the style he is aiming for. Succulent, fresh and not simple. Intense purity. 17/20 points