One of the things I have learned over the years is that you can count on Angelo Gaja to make a strong showing in just about any tasting. Yes, I know, Sperss is not Barolo (a small percentage of Barbera is added), but at its core the wine captures the essence of Serralunga and is as representative of these hillside vineyards as any Barolo. Dark tar, smoke, leather, spices, menthol and black cherries all make an appearance in this muscular, full-throttle wine. While the vast majority of 1998 Barolos can be enjoyed today, the 1998 Sperss could use another few years in the cellar. It isn't a crime to open a bottle today, but this is one of the few 1998s that still has upside potential. Simply put, the 1998 Sperss is a jewel. Incidentally, I tasted through the entire 1998 Gaja lineup last year and found all the wines outstanding. Highlights included Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildìn, which along with Sperss, are terrific wines.