2023 Meursault "Les Clous" Les Vins Qui N'Existent Pas · 2 bottles in original wooden case · 220 bottles produced Two bottles of the same wine, from the same parcel, picked on the same day and made by the same hand — separated only by the vessel they spent a year in. Bottles WG-028 and OAK-028 are the matched halves of a single experiment, and the lot exists to be opened side by side. The vineyard Les Clous sits high on the slope above Meursault, in the upper reaches of the hillside near Les Narvaux and Les Tillets. The soils are heavily marl-based — geologically close to those of Corton-Charlemagne, with topography and altitude the main points of difference. The cooler microclimate and limestone-rich ground give wines with brisker acidity and more mineral cut than the fatter, lower-lying Meursault lieux-dits The 2023 vintage 2023 was the largest harvest in Burgundy's recorded history, at 1.9 million hectolitres, which made yield control the defining decision of the season. Yields were generally lower on the Côte de Beaune, producing more concentrated whites, and a second heatwave from 6 September, with temperatures near 40°C, transformed ripeness in a matter of days. The Chardonnay was, by common consent, magnificent. The vintage signature in Meursault is generous yellow-fruited flesh over a firm mineral spine — which makes a cool, high-altitude site like Les Clous exactly the right raw material for a comparison of this kind, since the fruit has enough substance to show what each vessel does without being overwhelmed by either. Two vessels, one wine, both raised and matured at Charles V in Meursault OAK-028 — fermented and matured 12 months in new Taransaud barrels. Taransaud has been coopering in Cognac since the 1930s, from a family line of coopers reaching back to the 17th century, and opened a dedicated Beaune facility in 1997 to serve Burgundy. Their barrels have a particular reputation among winemakers: less immediately seductive in youth than other houses', but powerful, slightly austere, and excellent over the long term. Expect the classic Meursault architecture — micro-oxygenation through the staves building texture and breadth, with toast, hazelnut and pâtisserie notes woven into the fruit. WG-028 — matured in a Wineglobe. These are single-piece borosilicate glass vessels made by the Paetzold family; the project began in 2014 at the request of Burgundy growers, Meursault's own Arnaud Ente foremost among them. Glass is inert, impermeable and neutral, transferring nothing to the wine — no metals, no phenolics, no aromatics — while its thermal behaviour is close to that of concrete, giving good temperature stability. Because the vessel is filled without headspace, no topping is required and sulphur additions can be cut by 25–50%. Winemakers working with both report the same contrast: oak brings roundness and aromatic complexity, while the glass gives brighter fruit, intense freshness and a markedly stronger lees signature. In short: one bottle shows you what the winemaker and the cooper added. The other shows you what the vineyard did on its own. Reading them against each other is the closest thing to a controlled experiment that fine wine allows. The lot An original wooden case containing bottles WG-028 and OAK-028 — a matched pair from a production of only 220 bottles, from a micro-négociant sourcing from one of Meursault's leading growers. Suitable for a sommelier's masterclass, a comparative tasting, or a collector's shelf. Drink 2030–2035. Shipping worldwide.