Javier Barrachina; Giampiero Negretti; Franco Nencini - Le Temps de Cartier - 1992

Le Temps de Cartier. Edited by Javier Barrachina; Giampiero Negretti; Franco Nencini. Milan, Publiprom, 1992. 33 x 24 cm, hardcover, dust jacket, box, 359 pages. Black and white and color illustrations. Numbered edition. In excellent condition - flaws to the box.

Cartier International SNC, or simply Cartier, is a well-known French manufacturer of jewelry and watches, a branch of the Swiss group Richemont SA.
The House is known for its numerous pieces in the catalog, including the famous 'Bestiary,' a panther-shaped brooch created in 1940 for Wallis Simpson, and also for its first wristwatch, created in 1904 for the aviator Santos-Dumont, namely the 'Santos.' Cartier is considered one of the most prestigious jewelry manufacturers in the world. In 2019, Forbes ranked Cartier as the 5th most valuable brand globally. Cartier has a long history of sales to royalty. King Edward VII of Great Britain referred to Cartier as 'the jeweler of kings.' For his coronation in 1902, Edward VII ordered 27 diadems and issued a royal warrant to Cartier in 1904. Similar warrants soon followed from the courts of Spain, Portugal, Russia, and the House of Orleans. The Mackay emerald in the diamond necklace designed by Cartier in 1931. Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, when he took over his master Adolphe Picard's watchmaking workshop. It became particularly famous in 1856 when Princess Mathilde, niece of Napoleon I and cousin of Emperor Napoleon III, made her first purchases from Cartier. In 1859, Empress Eugenia became a client of the boutique, beginning a tradition of kings, queens, and emperors that would characterize the entire history of the Maison. In 1874, Louis-François's son, Alfred Cartier, took over the company, and his three sons (Louis, Pierre, and Jacques) would later become responsible for it. In 1899, the store opened at 3 Rue de la Paix, which still exists today. It was Louis, responsible for the Paris branch, who introduced some celebrated design innovations, such as the 'mystery clocks' (a type of watch with a transparent dial but hidden mechanism), as well as high jewelry wristwatches. In 1902, Cartier opened a store at 4 New Burlington Street in London. The London division of Cartier was managed by Jacques, the third son. The opening coincided with the coronation of King Edward VII, who in 1904 called Cartier 'the jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers' and appointed the maison as his official supplier, as did other European courts including Italy, Greece, Portugal, and Spain. The other two brothers, Pierre and Louis, managed the Paris and New York branches. The first wristwatch: the Santos In 1904, Louis Cartier created one of the first wristwatch models for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This famous watch launched the collection called Santos, dating back to 1911. Following the Santos Dumont model, other shapes followed, such as the Tonneau (1906) and the Tortue (1912), the latter also with a monopusher chronograph complication in 1928, cyclically reinterpreted by the company, the latest of which is dated 2024 and equipped with Cartier's in-house movement 1928 MC. Pierre Cartier founded the most famous branch in New York in 1909 and moved to the renowned Fifth Avenue building in 1917. The square in front was later called 'Place Cartier' in honor of the maison. Following this opening, the three 'souls' of Cartier were born: Cartier Paris, Cartier London, and Cartier New York. The saga of the Cartier Tank In 1917, Louis Cartier launched the first Tank watch (currently called Tank Normale), named for its shape reminiscent of tanks, which for the first time appeared in World War I. One of the tanks that inspired Cartier was the Renault FT. These watches were so appreciated that their successors are still sold today. In 1921, the Tank Cintrée was introduced (the first variation of the original Tank, with a curved case), followed by the Tank Chinoise and the Tank Louis Cartier in 1922 (which has rounded corners compared to the Normale), the Tank Savonette in 1926 (with a gold cover over the dial), the Tank à Guichet in 1928 (the only one without hands, with jumping hours), the Tank Obus in 1929 (the only square model). Also from the 1920s is the Tank Allongee. The 1932 model is the Tank Basculante, with a flip case according to a different scheme than that conceived more or less simultaneously by Jaeger-LeCoultre with the Reverso. In 1936, the Tank Asymétrique was introduced, followed by the Tank Must in 1977 (the first to feature a quartz movement), the Tank Americaine in 1989, the Tank Française in 1996, the Tank Anglaise in 2012, and the Tank Folle. Cartier Tank Française automatic, a model from the mid-2000s. The successes of the Art Déco style Cartier Cloche ref. 2841.
Another peculiar watch from Cartier, dating back to the early 1920s, is the Cloche, characterized by having the movement rotated 90 degrees and shaped like a small horizontal desk clock. The Trinity, introduced in 1924, was presented both as a ring (three genuine rings in three different golds intertwined) and as a bracelet. Its enormous success led many Hollywood stars (Alain Delon, Romy Schneider, Grace Kelly) to wear it, and it has been passed down to us maintaining its aesthetic purity. In 1931, the Maison created the Jeanne Toussaint necklace, named after Louis Cartier's muse of the same name, who was later appointed by him as the director of the company's high jewelry. The prestigious necklace was intended for the Maharaja of Nawanagar. Toussaint had been working at Cartier for nearly twenty years, and some believe that the inspiration for the Panthère collection, dating back to 1914, came from her. Cartier Pasha automatic in steel ref. WSPA0013, 2000s. In 1932, Moroccan pasha Thami El Glaoui specifically requested the French Maison to create an exclusive watch. Many years after the creation of this unique piece, the watch was permanently added to the catalog, thanks to Gérald Genta's design, and soon became known among the public as Cartier Pasha (around the mid-1980s). 1960s and 1970s.
After the deaths of Jacques and Luis, which occurred in 1941 and 1942, brother Pierre Cartier took over the management of Cartier Paris until his death in 1964. With Pierre's passing, the Cartier dynasty came to an end. In 1969, the Love bracelet was introduced, still famous today, characterized by a clean, unisex line and decorated with rivets. It was designed by Italian designer Aldo Cipullo, who shortly after also conceived the equally famous Juste Un Clou, Cartier's bent nail bracelet. Today, both the Love and the Juste Un Clou are offered as bracelets and rings. Cartier 687 quartz caliber, 1970s Cartier Square watch. In 1972, the company found new buyers—an investment group led by Joseph Kanoui and Alain-Dominique Perrin, the latter already producing licensed Cartier lighters. The company's president became Robert Hocq, creator of Les Must de Cartier jewelry, which from 1977 also became a watch: the Tank Must, with a style more appealing to a younger audience, featuring a quartz movement for the first time, with a vermeil case instead of gold to make it more affordable. The great success of Cartier's Must watches, which in a few years went from a few thousand pieces to over one hundred thousand, stimulated designers to create new models, including the first Cartier Crash in 1967, with a distorted case as if it had suffered a violent impact. In 1978, the aesthetic of the famous Santos was revised and softened, removing the cabochon stone from the crown and updating the look with a steel bracelet. This version, still on sale today after various restylings, achieved enormous commercial success. In 1979, Cartier Paris, London, and New York were merged into a single entity under new ownership. Cartier Vendome quartz ref. 8100, 1980s, with stamped dial. The 1980s saw the Cartier Santos Octagon, which maintained Cartier's signature style but adopted the lines of sports watches by Gérald Genta, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, among the first elegant steel watches. Toward the end of the decade, the Santos line was again revised and softened, resulting in the Santos Galbée. Cartier Santos Galbée quartz, ref. 1564, circa 2010. In 1983, in collaboration with Paris-Dakar, Cartier created a watch called Cheich, whose dial mimicked a Berber headdress, also the logo of a famous motor race. Only five pieces were made. In 1984, the Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain was established, still hosting innovative and interesting exhibitions. Alongside the Pasha watch, numerous complications were introduced, such as chronograph, moon phases, and perpetual calendar. In 1985, Gérald Genta revived the Pasha from Cartier's archives, initially offered only in precious materials, with the iconic cabochon crown, in a 38mm case. Over the years, the Pasha was also presented with various complications to expand its offerings. In 1989, the Tank Americaine was introduced, replacing the old Tank Cintrée and modernizing its aesthetic. In 2017, a steel version of the Tank Americaine was launched for the first time. The 1990s, 2000s, and contemporary Cartier: The 1990s saw the debut of the first steel Cartier Pasha. Perrin founded an international committee in 1991, the Comité International de la Haute Horlogerie, to organize its first fair on April 15, 1991, which became an annual gathering in Geneva for industry professionals. The following year, the second 'L'Art de Cartier' exhibition was held at the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg. In 1992, a joint venture was established with the watchmaking house Ebel, creating CEC (Compagnie Ebel Cartier), which produced some quartz movements but lasted only a few years due to Ebel's change of ownership. The 21 caliber, embedded in a Cartier Santos Dumont from the 1990s. Cartier Torture Monopusher Chronograph ref. 2396. In 1993, the Vendôme Luxury Group was formed as an umbrella company uniting Cartier, Dunhill, Montblanc, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Karl Lagerfeld, Chloé, Sulka, Hachette, and Seeger. The 1990s also saw the introduction of the Tank Basculante, with a different rotating mechanism from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso, rotating vertically rather than horizontally. The company also revived the Tortue Monopoussoir, its first monopusher chronograph. In 1994, the Cartier Foundation moved to the Rive Gauche and opened a new headquarters designed by Jean Nouvel. In 1995, the Pasha collection celebrated its tenth anniversary since its reintroduction by Gérald Genta, and the Pasha C was launched, featuring a 35mm case, more sobriety, no precious materials, and no cabochon stone. A new flat bracelet with an 'H' design was also introduced. Despite making the Pasha more accessible, it was a great success. By the mid-1990s, the Pasha collection included over 40 models. In 1996, the Lausanne Hermitage Foundation in Switzerland showcased 'Splendours of the Jewellery,' celebrating 150 years of Cartier products. The same year, the first generation of the Tank Française was introduced, updated aesthetically in 2023. In the 2000s, Cartier's watch designs were reinterpreted with models like the Roadster (2002), a blend between the Santos and Tank styles, and the Ballon Bleu (2007), still in catalog, with a round case. Early in the decade, the sporty 21 Chronoscaph was introduced, available as an automatic or quartz diver with a rubber and metal bracelet. In 2004, to mark the 100th anniversary of the first Santos, the Santos 100 was launched, recognizable by its larger size, aimed at a primarily male audience. Cartier Calibre automatic ref. 3299, 2010s. The first mass-produced Cartier with an in-house movement was the Calibre, a 38 or 42mm round watch, also available as a chronograph (2012) and diver (2013), water-resistant to 300 meters. The Calibre was also the first mass-produced watch to feature an automatic movement developed by Cartier, the Cartier 1904 MC, which later powered the Tank MC. Another sporty model is the Cruise, with a round case, a rotating bezel, and 100 meters water resistance. Cartier Santos Dumont quartz ref. 4240, 2023. In 2012, Cartier was owned by the South African Rupert family and Elle Pagels, a 24-year-old granddaughter of Pierre Cartier, through Richemont. That year, the Tank Folle was created, a diamond-encrusted Tank with fluid, Salvador Dalí-inspired shapes. Another notable Cartier watch is the Clé, named for its key-shaped winding crown. In 2015, the new 1847 MC movement was introduced, a self-winding watch with a design inspired by the ETA 2892, which had supplied Cartier until the previous year. Cartier Tank Must, 2021. In 2016, Cartier launched the Drive, with a cushion-shaped case designed mainly for men, making it one of the few Cartier models, along with the Calibre, aimed primarily at men. Currently, the only Cartier with a cushion-shaped case is the Coussin, made only in precious materials and gemstones. In 2018, the new generation of the Santos was introduced, available also as a chronograph and skeletonized. In 2019, the new Santos Dumont was launched in quartz and automatic versions. 2021 marked the hundredth anniversary of the Tank Cintrée, with a special anniversary edition featuring a movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre 849. The same year, the famous Tank Must was reissued, popular in the late 1970s and early 1980s. The Tank Must, also available with a classic Cartier dial (white with Roman numerals), replaces the earlier Tank Solo, with a similar aesthetic. Cartier Tank Must XL ref. 4324, 2024. In 2022, the Pebble was reintroduced from Cartier's heritage, in a limited edition to celebrate its 50th anniversary. The movements in serial watches have gradually shifted from ETA supplies to calibers made by other Richemont maisons, such as the 430 MC, a customized version of Piaget's 430P, along with various battery-powered movements.
High watchmaking From a watchmaker's perspective, Cartier does not only produce watches with supplied movements but also highly complicated timepieces with eccentric and innovative designs: an example was seen in 2022 with the presentation of the Masse Mystérieuse, equipped with the entire rotating automatic movement like the oscillating mass. Another example of a 'mystery watch' is the Clé, where the hands appear to be suspended in mid-air, just like in the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour.
Another high-end watch is the Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux Platinum, equipped with a full movement that completes a full rotation of the dial (along with the hands) in one hour, serving as a tourbillon and thus as a chronometry corrector. This solution was borrowed from the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Alongside these highly evolved mechanical models, there are numerous high jewelry watches with enamel dials. To mark the exclusivity of certain models, Cartier launched the NSO program (an acronym for 'New Special Order'), giving wealthy enthusiasts the opportunity to customize their Maison watches according to their tastes. Patronage.
Cartier, in its various locations, engages in patronage activities with awards for the purchase of artworks. Cartier watchmaking, besides being known for its jewelry creations, is renowned worldwide for its timepieces appreciated for their design and technology. The lines diversify into models that, in addition to being made of steel, are embellished with noble materials such as gold, platinum, and diamonds. Some of the most well-known models of the Maison:
21 Chronoscaph
21 Must de Cartier
Cartier 21 Must de Cartier, the 1980s
bathtub
Ballon Bleu
Cabriolet
Calandre
Calibre
Key
Cloche
Cougar
Couteau (a nickname for some particularly thin pocket watches: hence the nickname, which translates into 'knife' in English).
cushion
Crash
Cruise (or Croisière)
Declaration
Diabolo
Drive
Fabergé
Gondole
The Woman
Must Colisée
Cartier Must Colisée for women in gold.
Panther
Panther Ribbon
Pasha
Pebble
Rivoli
Roadster
Cartier Roadster chronograph ref. 2618
Round
Santos (including Santos Galbée and Santos Carrée)
Santos 100
Cartier Santos 100 medium ref. 2878, dating from 2005.
Santos Dumont
Santos Octagon
Santos Trianon
American Tank
Cartier Tank Americaine automatic in steel ref. WSTA0017
Tank Anglaise
Asymmetrical Tank
Tank a Guichet
Tank à Vis
Cartier Tank à Vis ref. 2553, 2000s.
Tilting Tank
Chinese tank
Tank Cintrée
Tank Divan
Cartier Tank Divan in gold, ref. 2601, mid-2000s
Tank Folle
Tank Française
Tank Lingot
Tank Louis Cartier
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier in gold, ref. 96065
Tank Must
Tank MC
Normal Tank
Tank shell
Tank Reverso
Tank Savonette
Tank Solo
Cartier Tank Solo XL ref. 3800, year 2015
Tonneau
turtle
Trocadero
Vendôme
Cartier Vendome quartz ref. 590003, 80s

Cartier Santos Galbée quartz watch ref. 1564 dating from 1999
Since 2017, the Cartier Privé collection has been launched, featuring each year revisited historical models in limited editions. From 2017 to date, models such as the Crash, the Tank Cintrée, the Tonneau, the Tank Asymétrique, the Cloche, the Tank Chinoise, and the Tank Normale have been introduced.

Cartier and the celebrities
Cartier has been able, over the centuries, to capture the attention of numerous celebrities through its creations. Some of the greatest enthusiasts of Cartier have included: Lady Diana, Andy Warhol, Rudolph Valentino, Ralph Lauren, Clark Gable, Alain Delon, Yves Montand, Truman Capote, Jackie Kennedy, Duke Ellington, Muhammad Ali, and many others.