Jurgen Teller - Go-Sees - 1999

Juergen Teller's book is at once a candid diary and a deep confrontation with the uncharted work that lies behind the glamour of the fashion industry.
In Go-Sees: Girls Who Knock on My Door, Juergen Teller recounts a year of encounters with women and girls from around the world who have come to the photographer, each with the hope of a major modeling career.
This book is not only a diary of Teller's studio door, but also an exploration of the relationship between the photographer and his subjects in uncharted territory.
With all the portraits taken on the threshold of his London studio, Teller has created a specific conception of photogenicity.
The dynamics of the castings freeze the body as fetishized merchandise in a global system with no borders.
However, Teller's photographs suggest how the anxieties generated by this borderless condition contribute to reinforcing the boundaries around success and celebrity.
The door as boundary provides a visual analogy for the ambivalent policies of inclusion and exclusion.
Teller has created a work of conceptual photography.
It begins as a series of portraits, but gains momentum as a critical and at times humorous vision of the fashion world's assembly line.
What emerges, in the end, is a single portrait of the next big face—whatever it may look like—at the turn of the millennium.