Carnet de bal - 1850

rare and exquisite miniature aide-mémoire (carnet de bal / dance card notebook) with covers of highly polished jet-black material, extremely thin (1–2mm) and lightweight, finished to a deep mirror gloss. Both the exceptional quality of materials and the multi-technique decorative work place this among the finer examples of Victorian personal accessories.
The front cover is decorated using two distinct inlay techniques in combination: hand-cut shell inlay and fine engraved gilt metal wire, together creating a composition of remarkable intricacy. The central design depicts a classical urn overflowing with an elaborate floral and foliate arrangement. The inlay work employs a notably diverse palette of materials: creamy white mother-of-pearl for the larger leaf and petal forms; vivid blue-green iridescent abalone shell for the most lustrous floral elements; warm golden-yellow translucent shell pieces forming the urn and selected leaves; and dark brown iridescent shell — possibly turbo or paua — creating the textured fruiting cluster at the upper left. Complementing the shell work, fine engraved gilt metal wire forms the twisted rope borders, delicate scrolling tendrils, swag ornament at the base of the urn, and the distinctive circular cluster motifs at each corner. This multi-material approach is characteristic of the finest Victorian decorative inlay work. The reverse cover is plain polished black, undecorated, showing the quality of the base material.
The interior retains its original pale blue moiré watered-silk writing leaves, designed to be written on in pencil and wiped clean. Three original tan leather loops are present — one at the top edge and two at the bottom — designed to hold a slim pencil or stylus. The gilt brass T-bar clasp is riveted through the front cover with two brass rivets and remains fully functional. A small gilt brass hanger on the reverse cover allowed the piece to be suspended from a chatelaine or attached to a wrist cord for use at balls and formal gatherings.
A complete and all-original example with all components intact. The combination of multiple shell materials, gilt wire decoration, original silk interior, leather pencil loops, functional clasp and chatelaine hanger surviving together is genuinely uncommon in pieces of this age and size.
MATERIAL: Polished jet-black hard covers (1–2mm); white mother-of-pearl, blue-green abalone, golden-yellow shell, dark iridescent shell inlay; fine gilt metal wire inlay; moiré silk interior leaves; leather pencil loops; gilt brass T-bar clasp with rivets; gilt brass chatelaine hanger; leather spine binding
AGE: c.1850–1870 (Mid-to-Late Victorian)
ORIGIN: England or France
DIMENSIONS: 5.3 × 3.8 × 0.5 cm | Weight: 11g
CONDITION: Very good antique condition. Minor surface scratches to covers consistent with age and use. All shell inlay intact. Gilt wire decoration intact. Interior silk leaves toned but complete. Small area of interior cloth lifting slightly at the clasp point — stable and minor. All three leather pencil loops present. Clasp functional. Chatelaine hanger present. Pencil not present.