Luce is a relatively new name in the world of Brunello di Montalcino. So it came as a surprise to some to see it received a perfect 100-point score in my blind tastings in Tuscany. The fabulous 2006 Luce is only the fourth Brunello from the winery of Luce della Vite, which Florence’s vintner family of the Frescobaldi’s own. The vineyards of Luce are part of the Castelgiocondo wine estate on the south of Montalcino. Originally, the Robert Mondavi Winery and the Frescobaldis owned Luce della Vite, but Mondavi sold its share to the Frescobaldis in early 2000 when the California winery sold to Constellation Brands. I met with Lamberto Frescobaldi in a restaurant in Tuscany last week near my house called L'Acqualina to discuss how he made such a perfect Brunello. It was a fascinating conversation about focused and precise viticulture in the region of Montalcino. James Suckling