N.º 100228191

Michael Joseph (1941-) - Christies model for diamond necklace auction
N.º 100228191

Michael Joseph (1941-) - Christies model for diamond necklace auction
Diamond Auction, Geneva — Photograph taken in 1987
Original darkroom print by Michael Joseph
This photograph belongs to the quieter, more ingenious end of Michael Joseph’s practice—where invention mattered as much as access.
Shot in Geneva on a Christie’s auction commission with a notoriously tight budget, the image embodies one of Joseph’s guiding truths: when resources ran short, imagination stepped in. The backdrop was not purpose-made for the shoot. It had been salvaged from an entirely different assignment, carefully reworked, and then—quite literally—transported by Joseph himself on the roof of his Range Rover as he drove it across borders to Switzerland, where the diamonds awaited.
That story matters, because it is written into the image.
What might have been a limitation becomes an advantage. The setting is pared back, almost abstract, drawing attention instead to line, form, and gesture: the elongated figure, the tension of the gloved arm, the elegant architecture of fabric against skin. The composition is restrained, graphic, and assured—fashion reduced to its essential language of silhouette, attitude, and control.
This work stands in deliberate contrast to the images for which Joseph is most publicly celebrated. Known for orchestrating exuberant, chaotic group scenes—the legendary Beggars Banquet session chief among them—he built a reputation on controlled disorder, on managing crowds, personalities, and visual noise. Here, everything is inverted. One figure replaces many. Stillness replaces clamour. Precision replaces spectacle.
The darkroom handling is characteristically sensitive. Tonal transitions are smooth yet tactile; blacks are deep without heaviness; highlights are held with care. The photograph feels worked: considered in the darkroom, not merely produced. This particular print is especially rare in that it has been hand-toned twice—once with a cool blue, and again with a warm brown-sepia—using techniques known only to the photographer. The result is a surface of remarkable depth, subtlety, and material presence.
The photograph is historically significant, having been created for a Christie’s sale featuring a unique diamond necklace set that once belonged to Sarah Bernhardt—the legendary actress, sculptor, and early global celebrity whose jewellery, like her performances, embodied theatricality, modern femininity, and cultural power at the turn of the twentieth century.
Signed and annotated by Joseph on the mount, this is a rare original darkroom print that reveals his adaptability and intelligence—proof that some of his most elegant images emerged not from abundance, but from constraint.
Owing to the gentle softening of memory that comes with age—Joseph, now 84, occasionally transposed names—Sotheby’s written here where Christie’s was intended stands not as an error, but as a human trace: a tender reminder that this work was annotated by the photographer himself, late in life, from memory rather than record.
The work is presented in a bespoke copper blue–patinated frame, specially made for this photograph by Justine, the photographer’s daughter. The patination was developed to echo the print’s hand-toned blue and sepia qualities, creating a sympathetic dialogue between image, mount, and frame. This is a considered, one-off framing choice—an extension of the photograph’s material language rather than a later or generic addition.
For collectors of British photography, fashion imagery, and late twentieth-century visual culture, this work offers a compelling counterpoint to Joseph’s better-known riotous scenes: a moment of poise, ingenuity, and calm confidence, born of necessity and executed with mastery.
Mounted and ready to hang - frame size 41cm square. The work will be dispatched without glass to ensure safe transit; replacement glazing can be easily and inexpensively sourced locally.
Dispatched with devotion and care, as works of this calibre deserve.
US purchasers please note: customs and excise charges are paid at source, and an allowance for this has been included in the postage fee. You should not be asked to pay anything further on delivery, unless current regulations change. Thank you for your understanding.
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