Helvetica - 1890 - 1850-1900

07
days
13
hours
56
minutes
00
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Current bid
€ 120
Reserve price not met
Mauro Atienza
Expert
Selected by Mauro Atienza

Graduated master watchmaker with over 30 years' experience and teaching background.

Estimate  € 700 - € 800
FI
€120
FI
€50
FI
€45

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Helvetica pocket watch model 1890, dating to 1850–1900, with manual-wind movement, a two-tone silver and gold case, 67 mm lug width and over 50 mm case diameter, 200 g weight, a complete calendar with day, date, month and moon phases, in working order and shipped insured.

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Description from the seller

This extraordinary pocket watch, manufactured in Switzerland around 1890, is a piece that stands out for its size, mechanical complexity, and aesthetic beauty. With a generous diameter of 67 mm, this antique watch elegantly combines the functionality of its multiple complications with a refined visual presentation. It is a complete calendar watch, with day of the week, date, month, and moon phase indications, all fully operational. Its excellent performance makes it not only a decorative or collectible object but also a living example of nineteenth-century mechanical horology at its finest.

The case, made of steel, presents an attractive contrast thanks to its gilded fluting and ring. Inside its lid is the oval seal "METAL GARANTI - GARANTIE METALLERIE" together with serial numbers 6689, elements that attest to its authenticity. Under the back cover, a crystal dust-cover protects the movement; although it shows a fine crack, its overall condition is solid and it continues to fulfill its protective function perfectly, also contributing a touch of authenticity and patina that only the years can confer.

The white porcelain enamel dial is one of the most notable elements of this watch. Around it, elegant blue Roman numerals mark the hours and a minutes scale with black Arabic numerals. It features hand-applied gold decorative details that reinforce its ornamental character. The subdials for the month, the day of the week, and the date are labeled in French, a common feature of Swiss watchmaking production of the era. The hands, black and finely worked in the Louis XV style, harmonize perfectly with the overall design.

On the sides of the case are small pins or push-buttons that allow you to adjust the different calendar functions, a technical solution typical of complicated watches from the late nineteenth century. Its visible mechanism displays meticulous work of gears and bronze and steel components, the result of Swiss high horology know-how.

This piece is a superb opportunity for lovers of watch collecting and for those who value mechanical creations with history and character. Ideal to be admired in a display case or to form part of an elegant vintage decoration.

This antique pocket watch combines elegance, technique, and rarity in a single object: a horological jewel difficult to find in such good condition.
Measurements: 6.7 cm (2.64 in).

History of pocket watches with calendar and moon phases
Pocket watches with complications such as the complete calendar and moon phases appeared during the eighteenth century, but reached their height in the nineteenth century. The combination of these functions represented the absolute mastery of mechanical watchmaking, which sought not only to indicate the time accurately but also to record the passage of time in an astronomical and calendrical way. The moon phase indication, in particular, had a romantic and scientific component at once, as it allowed tracking the lunar cycle with a precision valued in rural contexts as well as among astronomy enthusiasts.

During the nineteenth century, Switzerland established itself as the undisputed leader in high-complication watchmaking. Leading watch houses developed increasingly complex and reliable mechanisms, with systems that could show the days of the week, months, date, and moon phase on small dials integrated into the main dial of the watch. These pieces were almost exclusively handmade and intended for a select clientele that valued both practical usefulness and refined aesthetic and technical quality.

This type of watch, featuring multiple functions adjustable by external push-buttons, required technical mastery both in its fabrication and maintenance. It is no accident that many of these watches ended up in museums or private collections. With time, pocket watches were displaced by wristwatches, especially after World War I. However, vintage examples with complications remain highly valued today for their beauty, rarity, and the legacy of a golden era of artisanal watchmaking.
We do not ship to the United States.

This extraordinary pocket watch, manufactured in Switzerland around 1890, is a piece that stands out for its size, mechanical complexity, and aesthetic beauty. With a generous diameter of 67 mm, this antique watch elegantly combines the functionality of its multiple complications with a refined visual presentation. It is a complete calendar watch, with day of the week, date, month, and moon phase indications, all fully operational. Its excellent performance makes it not only a decorative or collectible object but also a living example of nineteenth-century mechanical horology at its finest.

The case, made of steel, presents an attractive contrast thanks to its gilded fluting and ring. Inside its lid is the oval seal "METAL GARANTI - GARANTIE METALLERIE" together with serial numbers 6689, elements that attest to its authenticity. Under the back cover, a crystal dust-cover protects the movement; although it shows a fine crack, its overall condition is solid and it continues to fulfill its protective function perfectly, also contributing a touch of authenticity and patina that only the years can confer.

The white porcelain enamel dial is one of the most notable elements of this watch. Around it, elegant blue Roman numerals mark the hours and a minutes scale with black Arabic numerals. It features hand-applied gold decorative details that reinforce its ornamental character. The subdials for the month, the day of the week, and the date are labeled in French, a common feature of Swiss watchmaking production of the era. The hands, black and finely worked in the Louis XV style, harmonize perfectly with the overall design.

On the sides of the case are small pins or push-buttons that allow you to adjust the different calendar functions, a technical solution typical of complicated watches from the late nineteenth century. Its visible mechanism displays meticulous work of gears and bronze and steel components, the result of Swiss high horology know-how.

This piece is a superb opportunity for lovers of watch collecting and for those who value mechanical creations with history and character. Ideal to be admired in a display case or to form part of an elegant vintage decoration.

This antique pocket watch combines elegance, technique, and rarity in a single object: a horological jewel difficult to find in such good condition.
Measurements: 6.7 cm (2.64 in).

History of pocket watches with calendar and moon phases
Pocket watches with complications such as the complete calendar and moon phases appeared during the eighteenth century, but reached their height in the nineteenth century. The combination of these functions represented the absolute mastery of mechanical watchmaking, which sought not only to indicate the time accurately but also to record the passage of time in an astronomical and calendrical way. The moon phase indication, in particular, had a romantic and scientific component at once, as it allowed tracking the lunar cycle with a precision valued in rural contexts as well as among astronomy enthusiasts.

During the nineteenth century, Switzerland established itself as the undisputed leader in high-complication watchmaking. Leading watch houses developed increasingly complex and reliable mechanisms, with systems that could show the days of the week, months, date, and moon phase on small dials integrated into the main dial of the watch. These pieces were almost exclusively handmade and intended for a select clientele that valued both practical usefulness and refined aesthetic and technical quality.

This type of watch, featuring multiple functions adjustable by external push-buttons, required technical mastery both in its fabrication and maintenance. It is no accident that many of these watches ended up in museums or private collections. With time, pocket watches were displaced by wristwatches, especially after World War I. However, vintage examples with complications remain highly valued today for their beauty, rarity, and the legacy of a golden era of artisanal watchmaking.
We do not ship to the United States.

Details

Brand
Helvetica
Model
1890
Shipped insured
Yes
Period
1850-1900
Movement
Manual winding
Case material
Gold, Silver
Case diameter
Greater than 50 mm
Condition
Good - visible signs of wear
Weight
200 g
Width lug/ watch band
67 mm
In working order
Yes
PortugalVerified
393
Objects sold
83.54%
Private

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