Brooch - 18 kt. Yellow gold - Diamond - ca. 1880 Shell Cameo

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Laura Trevino
Expert
Selected by Laura Trevino

She has 15 years' auction experience, specialising in vintage jewellery from 1920 to 2000.

Estimate  € 2,300 - € 2,800
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Unisex 18K yellow gold brooch and pendant with locket back, featuring a shell cameo ca. 1880 set with natural diamond surround and weighing 16.4 g, no laboratory report, condition very good.

AI-assisted summary

Description from the seller

Antique jewelry object group: brooch and pendant with locket in the back

Condition
very good condition
more info on our condition scale

Country of origin
Unknown for the jewel itself but from the cameo it is not unlikely that it has been made in Italy

Style
Victorian - Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.
  -  See also: Victorian
more info on styles

Style specifics
The Romantic Victorian Period - Experts divide the reign of Queen Victoria, also called The Victorian era (1837 - 1901) in to three periods of about twenty years each; The Romantic Victorian Period (1837 - 1860), The Grand Victorian Period (1860 - 1880), and the Late or Aesthetic Victorian Period (1880 - 1901).

We consider this to be of the Romantic Victorian Period. This period covers the coronation of Victoria as Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, and her marriage to King Albert and their love, their devotion to their marriage and to their country are the sources of inspiration for this period. The jewels of this period are made of intricate carvings, special techniques where the enamel is subtly worked. These techniques allowed to give the jewel a certain opulence with less precious metal needed. As precious metals were really rare at that time. Highly favored (semi-) precious stones in this period are amethyst, coral, garnets, seed pearls and turquoises. The connotation is obviously sentimental, symbolic and romantic with reminiscent Gotic and/or Renaissance patterns and an abundant use of motifs like anchors, birds, branches, crosses, hearts and snakes.

Period
ca. 1880
Events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era.

Source of inspiration
After Thorvaldsen's relief that he made around 1810 depicting Cupid and Bacchus stomping grapes, see also pictures for the original relief as it can be seen in The Thorvaldsen Museum inventory number A413

Material
18K yellow gold (touchstone tested)
more info on precious metals

Technique
Cameo is a method of carving, or an item of jewellery or vessel made in this manner. It features a raised (positive) relief image. There are three main materials for Cameo carving; Shells or Agate (called a Hardstone cameo), and glass. Cameos can be produced by setting a carved relief, such as a portrait, onto a background of a contrasting colour. This is called an assembled cameo. Alternately, a cameo can be carved directly out of a material with integral layers or banding, such as (banded) agate or layered glass, where different layers have different colours. Sometimes dyes are used to enhance these colours. Cameos are often worn as jewellery. Stone cameos of great artistry were made in Greece dating back as far as the 6th century BC. They were very popular in Ancient Rome, and one of the most famous stone cameos from this period is the Gemma Claudia made for the Emperor Claudius. The technique has since enjoyed periodic revivals, notably in the early Renaissance, and again in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.

Precious stones
One cameo and nine natural half seed pearls

Birthstones
Pearl is the birthstone (or month stone) for June.
more info on birthstones

Hallmarks
No trace.
more info on hallmarks

Dimensions
3,14 cm (1,24 inch) x 4,85 cm (1,91 inch)
see picture with a ruler in millimeters and inches

Weight
16,40 gram (10,55 dwt)

Adin Reference Nº
21130-0149

Copyright photography
Adin, fine antique jewellery

Sources
Book: Berthel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844) by Stefano Grandesso (ISBN 9788836619122) - page 104 for a picture of the bas relief

Additional information
our latest acquisitions
jewelry glossary
wall of fame
visit us in Antwerp
subscribe to our mailinglist

Seller's Story

Adin shares with their collection of vintage and antique jewellery over 4 decades of expertise. On our provider page, you get the experience of exploring our boutique, located in the world diamond center Antwerp. Elkan Wijnberg, Adin’s founder and CEO, is a member of the Belgian Chamber of Experts to the Courts of Justice and of both the British and American Society of Jewellery Historians.

Antique jewelry object group: brooch and pendant with locket in the back

Condition
very good condition
more info on our condition scale

Country of origin
Unknown for the jewel itself but from the cameo it is not unlikely that it has been made in Italy

Style
Victorian - Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.
  -  See also: Victorian
more info on styles

Style specifics
The Romantic Victorian Period - Experts divide the reign of Queen Victoria, also called The Victorian era (1837 - 1901) in to three periods of about twenty years each; The Romantic Victorian Period (1837 - 1860), The Grand Victorian Period (1860 - 1880), and the Late or Aesthetic Victorian Period (1880 - 1901).

We consider this to be of the Romantic Victorian Period. This period covers the coronation of Victoria as Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, and her marriage to King Albert and their love, their devotion to their marriage and to their country are the sources of inspiration for this period. The jewels of this period are made of intricate carvings, special techniques where the enamel is subtly worked. These techniques allowed to give the jewel a certain opulence with less precious metal needed. As precious metals were really rare at that time. Highly favored (semi-) precious stones in this period are amethyst, coral, garnets, seed pearls and turquoises. The connotation is obviously sentimental, symbolic and romantic with reminiscent Gotic and/or Renaissance patterns and an abundant use of motifs like anchors, birds, branches, crosses, hearts and snakes.

Period
ca. 1880
Events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era.

Source of inspiration
After Thorvaldsen's relief that he made around 1810 depicting Cupid and Bacchus stomping grapes, see also pictures for the original relief as it can be seen in The Thorvaldsen Museum inventory number A413

Material
18K yellow gold (touchstone tested)
more info on precious metals

Technique
Cameo is a method of carving, or an item of jewellery or vessel made in this manner. It features a raised (positive) relief image. There are three main materials for Cameo carving; Shells or Agate (called a Hardstone cameo), and glass. Cameos can be produced by setting a carved relief, such as a portrait, onto a background of a contrasting colour. This is called an assembled cameo. Alternately, a cameo can be carved directly out of a material with integral layers or banding, such as (banded) agate or layered glass, where different layers have different colours. Sometimes dyes are used to enhance these colours. Cameos are often worn as jewellery. Stone cameos of great artistry were made in Greece dating back as far as the 6th century BC. They were very popular in Ancient Rome, and one of the most famous stone cameos from this period is the Gemma Claudia made for the Emperor Claudius. The technique has since enjoyed periodic revivals, notably in the early Renaissance, and again in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.

Precious stones
One cameo and nine natural half seed pearls

Birthstones
Pearl is the birthstone (or month stone) for June.
more info on birthstones

Hallmarks
No trace.
more info on hallmarks

Dimensions
3,14 cm (1,24 inch) x 4,85 cm (1,91 inch)
see picture with a ruler in millimeters and inches

Weight
16,40 gram (10,55 dwt)

Adin Reference Nº
21130-0149

Copyright photography
Adin, fine antique jewellery

Sources
Book: Berthel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844) by Stefano Grandesso (ISBN 9788836619122) - page 104 for a picture of the bas relief

Additional information
our latest acquisitions
jewelry glossary
wall of fame
visit us in Antwerp
subscribe to our mailinglist

Seller's Story

Adin shares with their collection of vintage and antique jewellery over 4 decades of expertise. On our provider page, you get the experience of exploring our boutique, located in the world diamond center Antwerp. Elkan Wijnberg, Adin’s founder and CEO, is a member of the Belgian Chamber of Experts to the Courts of Justice and of both the British and American Society of Jewellery Historians.

Details

Era
1400-1900
Laboratory report
No laboratory report
Diamond type of surrounding stones
Natural
Estimated period
1850-1900
Metal
Yellow gold
Brand jewellery
No
Fineness
18 kt.
Total weight
16.4 g
Surrounding stones
Diamond
Condition
Very good condition - slightly used with small signs of wear
Gender
Unisex
Title additional information
ca. 1880 Shell Cameo
Sold by
BelgiumVerified
10107
Objects sold
99.56%
protop

Disclaimer

Catawiki always aims to offer you the best possible buying experience. Our experts virtually review and select every object in line with our submission guidelines. While we strive to provide a detailed description and photographs of each jewellery object, discrepancies or inaccuracies may occur. It is your responsibility to review all of the information provided about an object, including the condition and description, before placing an order. Sellers are responsible for the information, pictures and description provided, including the quality, quantity and nature of the jewelry supplied. A small imperfection that cannot be seen in the photo but is included in the description is not a non-conformity. A Lab Report is not a guarantee, valuation or appraisal regarding the articles described therein. A Lab Report contains only the characteristics of an article described after it has been graded, tested, examined, and analyzed using the techniques and equipment used at the time of the examination from that specific Lab. The results of any other examination performed on the article may differ depending when, how, by whom and with which grading standard the article is examined. In addition, any changes and improvements in techniques and equipment that may have occurred which may enable the examiner to detect, among other things, the use of processes for altering the characteristics of an article which use was previously undetectable, does not automatically mean the object does not conform to its description.

Catawiki always aims to offer you the best possible buying experience. Our experts virtually review and select every object in line with our submission guidelines. While we strive to provide a detailed description and photographs of each jewellery object, discrepancies or inaccuracies may occur. It is your responsibility to review all of the information provided about an object, including the condition and description, before placing an order. Sellers are responsible for the information, pictures and description provided, including the quality, quantity and nature of the jewelry supplied. A small imperfection that cannot be seen in the photo but is included in the description is not a non-conformity. A Lab Report is not a guarantee, valuation or appraisal regarding the articles described therein. A Lab Report contains only the characteristics of an article described after it has been graded, tested, examined, and analyzed using the techniques and equipment used at the time of the examination from that specific Lab. The results of any other examination performed on the article may differ depending when, how, by whom and with which grading standard the article is examined. In addition, any changes and improvements in techniques and equipment that may have occurred which may enable the examiner to detect, among other things, the use of processes for altering the characteristics of an article which use was previously undetectable, does not automatically mean the object does not conform to its description.

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