No reserve price - Pendant Victorian Mourning Cross in French agate and cameo in hardstone, circa 1870 - Exclusive
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Victorian mourning cross in French jet with a cameo carved in dura stone, dating circa 1860–1880, total weight 11.5 g, no laboratory report, origin France, good antique condition with minor wear.
AI-assisted summary
Description from the seller
An excellent example of sentimental and mourning jewelry dating to the High Victorian Era (circa 1860-1880). This pendant represents a true cross-section of the rigid social and goldsmithing etiquette of the nineteenth century, configured as a high-collectible piece destined for an elite market.
The Structure and Sculptural Thickness: The cross is made of authentic French Jet, a precious, dense black lead glass of the nineteenth century characterized by a deep mirrored luster, sharply faceted pyramid-like edges, and total absence of air bubbles. With a thickness of 0.7 cm, the piece boasts an imposing yet sophisticated three-dimensional presence. At the time, these generous thicknesses were chosen to flaunt social status, preferring materials balanced in weight (only 11.5 g overall) so they could be worn daily during the long years of mourning.
The Cameo in Hard Stone and the Symbolism of the "Mezzo Lutto" (Half Mourning): In the center stands a fine oval cameo in real hard stone (onyx/jasper) finely carved in relief with a classical feminine profile. In Victorian culture, the introduction of a white cameo on a black base indicated the transition to the so-called "Second Mourning" or "Half Mourning": the white of the stone symbolized the light of remembrance beginning to pierce the darkness of grief. The use of hard stone instead of the common shell or glass paste attests to the high value of the original patronage.
Technical Excellence of the "Invisible" Mounting: The cameo is applied with a refined, period-specific "thread" technique. It is deftly laid and anchored directly to the glass structure through a hot fusion of original nineteenth-century mastics (gum lac and mineral powder), without the aid of settings, prongs, or metal frames visible from the outside. This preserves the extraordinary geometric cleanliness of the design, a constructional finesse of exceptional quality.
The Upper Clasp: Surmounted by an era-appropriate suspension hook in golden metal, whose workmanship and luster are fully compatible with production in low gold (9k/12k) or pinchbeck, typical of nineteenth-century jewelry standards.
Technical Details and Specifications:
Era: Circa 1860 - 1880 (Victorian Era).
Dimensions: Overall height 7 cm (including hook); Width 3 cm.
Cross thickness: 0.7 cm (7 mm).
Total weight: 11.5 grams.
Condition: Exceptional antique condition. The black glass structure is extraordinarily intact, free of chippings on the geometric profiles typical of these pieces, without cracks or restorations. The cameo is firmly anchored in its original setting.
A piece for museum display, ideal for discerning collectors of historic jewelry or as a high-impact antique investment.
Time signs: some minimal scratches or tiny nicks but this does not affect the beauty of bygone times.
Seller's Story
Lover of beauty … of curiosities .. Of art.. Of the sacred.. of the profane .. I have lost
Catawiki gave me the opportunity to make my collection known to other connoisseurs ..
That is the true meaning of collecting ; sharing ..
and a piece will never be well-collected unless it reaches another eye that appreciates it, another destination, another showcase ..
Through the ages of ages ..
Davide
Translated by Google TranslateAn excellent example of sentimental and mourning jewelry dating to the High Victorian Era (circa 1860-1880). This pendant represents a true cross-section of the rigid social and goldsmithing etiquette of the nineteenth century, configured as a high-collectible piece destined for an elite market.
The Structure and Sculptural Thickness: The cross is made of authentic French Jet, a precious, dense black lead glass of the nineteenth century characterized by a deep mirrored luster, sharply faceted pyramid-like edges, and total absence of air bubbles. With a thickness of 0.7 cm, the piece boasts an imposing yet sophisticated three-dimensional presence. At the time, these generous thicknesses were chosen to flaunt social status, preferring materials balanced in weight (only 11.5 g overall) so they could be worn daily during the long years of mourning.
The Cameo in Hard Stone and the Symbolism of the "Mezzo Lutto" (Half Mourning): In the center stands a fine oval cameo in real hard stone (onyx/jasper) finely carved in relief with a classical feminine profile. In Victorian culture, the introduction of a white cameo on a black base indicated the transition to the so-called "Second Mourning" or "Half Mourning": the white of the stone symbolized the light of remembrance beginning to pierce the darkness of grief. The use of hard stone instead of the common shell or glass paste attests to the high value of the original patronage.
Technical Excellence of the "Invisible" Mounting: The cameo is applied with a refined, period-specific "thread" technique. It is deftly laid and anchored directly to the glass structure through a hot fusion of original nineteenth-century mastics (gum lac and mineral powder), without the aid of settings, prongs, or metal frames visible from the outside. This preserves the extraordinary geometric cleanliness of the design, a constructional finesse of exceptional quality.
The Upper Clasp: Surmounted by an era-appropriate suspension hook in golden metal, whose workmanship and luster are fully compatible with production in low gold (9k/12k) or pinchbeck, typical of nineteenth-century jewelry standards.
Technical Details and Specifications:
Era: Circa 1860 - 1880 (Victorian Era).
Dimensions: Overall height 7 cm (including hook); Width 3 cm.
Cross thickness: 0.7 cm (7 mm).
Total weight: 11.5 grams.
Condition: Exceptional antique condition. The black glass structure is extraordinarily intact, free of chippings on the geometric profiles typical of these pieces, without cracks or restorations. The cameo is firmly anchored in its original setting.
A piece for museum display, ideal for discerning collectors of historic jewelry or as a high-impact antique investment.
Time signs: some minimal scratches or tiny nicks but this does not affect the beauty of bygone times.
Seller's Story
Lover of beauty … of curiosities .. Of art.. Of the sacred.. of the profane .. I have lost
Catawiki gave me the opportunity to make my collection known to other connoisseurs ..
That is the true meaning of collecting ; sharing ..
and a piece will never be well-collected unless it reaches another eye that appreciates it, another destination, another showcase ..
Through the ages of ages ..
Davide
Translated by Google TranslateDetails
Era
1400-1900
Laboratory report
No laboratory report
Estimated period
1850-1900
Metal
Victorian Mourning Cross in French agate and cameo in hardstone, circa 1870
Brand jewellery
No
Total weight
11.5 g
Condition
Good condition - used with some signs of wear
Gender
Women
Country of origin
France
Title additional information
Exclusive
Sold by
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Catawiki always aims to offer you the best possible buying experience. Our experts virtually review and select every object in line with our submission guidelines. While we strive to provide a detailed description and photographs of each jewellery object, discrepancies or inaccuracies may occur. It is your responsibility to review all of the information provided about an object, including the condition and description, before placing an order. Sellers are responsible for the information, pictures and description provided, including the quality, quantity and nature of the jewelry supplied. A small imperfection that cannot be seen in the photo but is included in the description is not a non-conformity. A Lab Report is not a guarantee, valuation or appraisal regarding the articles described therein. A Lab Report contains only the characteristics of an article described after it has been graded, tested, examined, and analyzed using the techniques and equipment used at the time of the examination from that specific Lab. The results of any other examination performed on the article may differ depending when, how, by whom and with which grading standard the article is examined. In addition, any changes and improvements in techniques and equipment that may have occurred which may enable the examiner to detect, among other things, the use of processes for altering the characteristics of an article which use was previously undetectable, does not automatically mean the object does not conform to its description.
Catawiki always aims to offer you the best possible buying experience. Our experts virtually review and select every object in line with our submission guidelines. While we strive to provide a detailed description and photographs of each jewellery object, discrepancies or inaccuracies may occur. It is your responsibility to review all of the information provided about an object, including the condition and description, before placing an order. Sellers are responsible for the information, pictures and description provided, including the quality, quantity and nature of the jewelry supplied. A small imperfection that cannot be seen in the photo but is included in the description is not a non-conformity. A Lab Report is not a guarantee, valuation or appraisal regarding the articles described therein. A Lab Report contains only the characteristics of an article described after it has been graded, tested, examined, and analyzed using the techniques and equipment used at the time of the examination from that specific Lab. The results of any other examination performed on the article may differ depending when, how, by whom and with which grading standard the article is examined. In addition, any changes and improvements in techniques and equipment that may have occurred which may enable the examiner to detect, among other things, the use of processes for altering the characteristics of an article which use was previously undetectable, does not automatically mean the object does not conform to its description.
