Cartier - Must de Cartier Vendome - 117699 - Unisex - 1990-1999

CARTIER MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME VERMEIL – REF. 17 – QUARTZ – VINTAGE 30 mm approx.

Brand: Cartier
Collection: Must de Cartier
Model: Vendôme
Reference / type: 17
Serial number: 117699
Movement: Swiss quartz
Case: 925 sterling silver with Vermeil finish
Plating: Gold 20 microns (G 20 M gold plate)
Approximate diameter: 30 mm
Dial: Cream / ivory
Crystal: Mineral
Crown: Fluted with blue cabochon
Strap: Black leather, crocodile-style finish
Manufacture: Swiss Made
Era: Vintage, approximately late 1980s / early 1990s
Gender: Unisex due to size and design

DESCRIPTION

Elegant vintage Cartier Must de Cartier Vendôme, one of the most recognizable interpretations of the historic Must de Cartier collection.

This piece features the characteristic Vendôme round Vermeil case, made of 925 sterling silver and subsequently gold-plated, as evidenced by the engravings preserved on the case back:

CARTIER PARIS – VERMEIL – QUARTZ – ARGENT 925 – PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M – SWISS MADE – 117699 – 17.

The cream/ivory dial maintains an especially elegant configuration, with black Roman numerals at XII, III, VI, and IX, geometric indices at the other positions, and a double golden decorative ring.

At 12 o’clock appears the "must de Cartier" signature, while at 6 o’clock is the inscription "SWISS".

Completing the design is the distinctive fluted crown topped by a blue cabochon, one of the aesthetic elements most associated with Cartier watchmaking.

A fine, discreet and eminently classic watch, with the restrained proportions typical of luxury watchmaking of its era.

CASE AND MATERIALS

The case is made of 925 sterling silver, as indicated by the punch "ARGENT 925" on the back.

Gold plating of 20 microns was applied over the silver, identified by the French inscription:

"PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M"

This silver-gold construction is what gives the Vermeil finish its name, closely associated with numerous models in the Must de Cartier collection.

The case features the characteristic circular Vendôme design, with straight lugs integrated and small gold decorative terminals at the ends of the strap.

DIAL

Cream/ivory dial, clean and classic in aesthetics.

Features:
• Signature "must de Cartier" at 12
• Black Roman numerals at XII, III, VI and IX
• Black geometric indices for the intervening hours
• Double decorative gold ring
• Two central hands for hours and minutes
• Inscription "SWISS" at 6

The combination of black, cream and gold provides a sober look very characteristic of Cartier.

MOVEMENT

Swiss quartz movement.
The case back is explicitly engraved with “Quartz” and “Swiss Made.”
The Must Vendôme reference 17 was marketed with Cartier quartz movements, this configuration being one of the most representative of the collection during this period.

DIMENSIONS

Case diameter: approximately 30 mm
Approximate strap width: 14–17 mm depending on measurement point
Shape: round
Profile: slim

The indicated measurements for the case correspond to the known specifications of reference 17; they can be confirmed with the caliper before sale.

ENGRAVINGS AND MARKINGS

The back clearly preserves the following engravings:

Cartier
Paris
VERMEIL
Quartz
ARGENT 925
PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M
SWISS MADE
117699
17

Different contrasting punch marks can also be observed around the inscriptions.

The preservation and legibility of these engravings is a particularly interesting detail in a vintage piece.

CONDITION

Condition: Vintage / used, with visible signs of wear and age.

The case shows superficial wear, scratches, small marks and wear of the gold finish in certain areas, especially noticeable on the perimeter and lugs. This wear has not been hidden, and the photographs show the current state of the piece in detail.

The dial retains an overall attractive presentation, though small marks and signs of age may be seen.

The crystal shows visible signs of use in the photographs.

IMPORTANT – STRAP

The strap is described only by its appearance; it is not Cartier.

HISTORY – MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME

The Must de Cartier line occupies a very particular place in Cartier’s modern history.

The collection expanded during the late 20th century, broadening the Maison’s watch universe with timepieces that preserved Cartier’s characteristic aesthetic codes, frequently using Vermeil silver cases and quartz movements.

Within this family, the Vendôme is immediately recognized for its elegant circular case and especially refined proportions.

Comparable Must Vendôme reference 17 pieces are currently cataloged by vintage watch specialists as roughly 30 mm, made in Vermeil and equipped with a quartz movement.

Its restrained style makes it perfectly suitable today as a men’s or women’s watch, especially for those seeking the classic proportions of vintage watchmaking.

IDENTIFICATION OF THIS UNIT

Cartier Must de Cartier Vendôme
Reference / type: 17
Serial number: 117699
Case: Argent 925 / Vermeil
Plating: gold 20 microns
Movement: Quartz
Origin stated: Swiss Made

The unit shown in the photographs is exactly what is for sale.

The images are an integral part of the description and allow a detailed assessment of the dial and case, crown, back, engravings and strap condition.

Vintage piece with more than three decades of history, appealing to both Cartier collectors and fans of classic watchmaking.

Photos are part of the description.