Cartier - Must de Cartier Vendome - 117699 - Unisex - 1990-1999

CARTIER MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME VERMEIL – REF. 17 – QUARTZ – VINTAGE

Brand: Cartier
Collection: Must de Cartier
Model: Vendôme
Reference / type: 17
Individual number: 117699
Movement: Swiss quartz
Case: 925 sterling silver with Vermeil finish
Plating: 20 micron gold (G 20 M gold plating)
Approximate diameter: 30 mm
Dial: Cream/ivory
Crystal: Mineral
Crown: Coined with blue cabochon
Strap: Black leather, crocodile-style finish
Manufacture: Swiss Made
Era: Vintage, approximately late 1980s / early 1990s
Gender: Unisex by dimensions and design

DESCRIPTION

Elegant vintage Cartier Must de Cartier Vendôme, one of the most recognizable interpretations of the historic Must de Cartier collection.

This example features the distinctive Vendôme round Vermeil case, made in 925 sterling silver and subsequently gold-plated, as evidenced by the engravings preserved on the back of the case:

CARTIER PARIS – VERMEIL – QUARTZ – ARGENT 925 – PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M – SWISS MADE – 117699 – 17.

The cream/ivory dial maintains an especially elegant layout, with black Roman numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9, geometric black hour markers for the remaining positions, and a double decorative gold ring.

At 12 o’clock appears the signature “must de Cartier,” while at 6 o’clock the inscription “SWISS.”

Completing the design is the characteristic fluted crown topped by a blue cabochon, one of the aesthetic elements most associated with Cartier watchmaking.

A fine, discreet, and eminently classic watch, with the refined proportions typical of luxury watchmaking of its era.

BOX AND MATERIALS

The case is made of 925 sterling silver, as indicated by the hallmark “ARGENT 925” on the back.

On top of the silver, a 20-micron gold plating was applied, identified by the French inscription:

“PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M”

This gold-on-silver construction is what gives the finish its Vermeil name, closely associated with many models in the Must de Cartier collection.

The case features the characteristic circular design of the Must Vendôme, with straight lugs and small decorative gold terminals at the ends of the strap.

DIAL

Cream/ivory dial, with a clean, classic aesthetic.

Features:

• Signature “must de Cartier” at 12
• Roman numerals at XII, III, VI, IX
• Black geometric hour markers for the intermediate hours
• Double gold decorative ring
• Two central hands for hours and minutes
• Inscription “SWISS” at 6

The combination of black, cream, and gold provides a sober and very Cartier-esque aesthetic.

MOVEMENT

Swiss quartz movement.
The case back is explicitly engraved “Quartz” and “Swiss Made.”

The Must Vendôme reference 17 was sold with Cartier quartz movements, this configuration being one of the most representative of the collection during this period.

MEASUREMENTS

Case diameter: approximately 30 mm
Estimated strap width: 14–17 mm depending on measuring point
Shape: round
Profile: slim

The measurements given for the case correspond to the known specifications of reference 17; they can be confirmed with the movement before sale.

ENGRAVINGS AND NUMBERING

The back clearly retains the following inscriptions:

Cartier
Paris
VERMEIL
Quartz
ARGENT 925
PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M
SWISS MADE
117699
17

Diverse contrast stamps are also visible around the inscriptions.

The preservation and legibility of these engravings is a particularly interesting detail on a vintage piece.

CONDITION

Condition: Vintage / used, with visible signs of wear and age.
The case shows surface wear, scratches, small marks, and wear of the gold finish in certain areas, especially around the perimeter and lugs. This wear has not been hidden and the photos show the current state in detail.

Dial maintains an overall attractive presentation, though small marks and signs of age may be visible.

Crystal shows signs of use as visible in the photographs.

IMPORTANT – STRAP

The strap is described only by appearance; it is not Cartier.

HISTORY – MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME

The Must de Cartier line holds a very particular place in Cartier’s modern history.

The collection expanded during the late 20th century the watchmaking universe of the Maison by producing watches that retained Cartier’s characteristic aesthetic codes, using Vermeil silver cases and quartz movements in many models.

Within this family, the Vendôme is immediately recognizable for its elegant circular case and refined proportions.

Comparable Must Vendôme reference 17 pieces are currently catalogued by vintage watch specialists as roughly 30 mm pieces, made in Vermeil and equipped with a quartz movement.

Its restrained aesthetics make it suitable today as a unisex watch, especially for those seeking the classic proportions of vintage watchmaking.

IDENTIFICATION OF THIS UNIT

Cartier Must de Cartier Vendôme
Reference / type: 17
Number: 117699
Case: Argent 925 / Vermeil
Plating: Gold 20 microns
Movement: Quartz
Origin indicated: Swiss Made

The unit shown in the photographs is exactly what is for sale.

The images are an integral part of the description and allow a detailed assessment of the dial as well as the case, crown, back, engravings, and strap condition.

A vintage piece with more than three decades of history, appealing to both Cartier collectors and fans of classic watchmaking.

The photos are part of the description.