Cartier - Must de Cartier Vendome - No reserve price - 117699 - Unisex - 1990-1999

CARTIER MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME VERMEIL – REF. 17 – QUARTZ – VINTAGE 30 mm approximately diameter.

Brand: Cartier
Collection: Must de Cartier
Model: Vendôme
Reference / type: 17
Serial number: 117699
Movement: Swiss quartz
Case: 925 sterling silver with Vermeil finish
Plating: Gold 20 microns (G 20 M gold plate)
Approximate diameter: 30 mm
Dial: Cream/ivory
Crystal: Mineral
Crown: Knurled with blue cabochon
Strap: Black leather, crocodile-style finish
Manufacturing: Swiss Made
Era: Vintage, approximately late 1980s / early 1990s
Gender: Unisex by size and design

DESCRIPTION

Elegant vintage Cartier Must de Cartier Vendôme, one of the most recognizable interpretations of the historic Must de Cartier collection.

This example features the characteristic Vendôme round case in Vermeil, made of 925 sterling silver and subsequently gold-plated, as evidenced by the engravings preserved on the underside of the case:

CARTIER PARIS – VERMEIL – QUARTZ – ARGENT 925 – PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M – SWISS MADE – 117699 – 17.

The cream/ivory dial maintains an especially elegant layout, with black Roman numerals at XII, III, VI and IX, geometric black hour markers for the remaining positions, and a double decorative gold ring.

At 12 o’clock sits the “must de Cartier” signature, while at 6 o’clock the inscription “SWISS.”

Completing the design is the distinctive knurled crown topped with a blue cabochon, one of the aesthetic elements most associated with Cartier watchmaking.

A refined, discreet, and eminently classic watch, with the restrained proportions typical of luxury watchmaking of its era.

CASE AND MATERIALS

The case is made of 925 sterling silver, as indicated by the hallmark “ARGENT 925” on the back.

Over the silver, a gold plating of 20 microns was applied, identified by the French inscription:

“PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M”

This construction in gilded silver is what gives the Vermeil finish its name, closely associated with numerous models in the Must de Cartier collection.

The case features the characteristic circular Vendôme Must design, with integrated straight lugs and small gold decorative terminals at the ends of the strap.

DIAL

Cream/ivory dial, with a clean, classic aesthetic.

Features:
- “must de Cartier” signature at 12
- Roman numerals at XII, III, VI, IX
- Black geometric hour markers for the intermediate hours
- Double gold decorative ring
- Two central hands for hours and minutes
- “SWISS” inscription at 6

The combination of black, cream, and gold provides a sober aesthetic that is very characteristic of Cartier.

MOVEMENT

Swiss quartz movement.
The case back is explicitly engraved “Quartz” and “Swiss Made.”
Must Vendôme reference 17 watches were sold with Cartier quartz movements, and this configuration is one of the most representative of the collection during this period.

DIMENSIONS

Case diameter: approximately 30 mm
Approximate strap width: 14–17 mm depending on measurement point
Shape: round
Thickness: slim

The indicated measures for the case correspond to the known specifications of reference 17; they can be confirmed with the caliber prior to sale.

ENGRAVINGS AND MARKINGS

The back clearly retains the following engravings:

Cartier
Paris
VERMEIL
Quartz
ARGENT 925
PLAQUÉ OR G 20 M
SWISS MADE
117699
17

Also visible are various contrast stamps around the inscriptions.

The preservation and legibility of these engravings is a particularly interesting detail in a vintage piece.

CONDITION

Condition: good considering that it is vintage, showing signs of use and age, typical of its era (see photos, which are part of the description).

STRAP

The strap is described only by appearance; it is not Cartier.

HISTORY – MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME

The Must de Cartier line occupies a very particular place in Cartier’s modern history.

The collection broadened the Maison’s watch universe during the late 20th century with watches that retained Cartier’s characteristic aesthetic codes, often using Vermeil silver cases and quartz movements.

Within this family, the Vendôme is immediately recognizable by its elegant circular case and its particularly refined proportions.

Comparable Must Vendôme reference 17 pieces are currently cataloged by vintage watch specialists as pieces of approximately 30 mm, made in Vermeil and equipped with a quartz movement.

Its restrained aesthetics make it perfectly suitable today as a men’s or women’s watch, especially for those seeking the classic proportions of vintage watchmaking.

IDENTIFICATION OF THIS UNIT

Cartier Must de Cartier Vendôme
Reference / type: 17
Serial number: 117699
Case: Argent 925 / Vermeil
Plating: gold 20 microns
Movement: Quartz
Origin: Swiss Made

The unit offered is exactly the one shown in the photographs.

The images are an integral part of the description and allow a detailed assessment of the dial, case, crown, back, engravings, and condition of the strap.

Vintage piece with more than three decades of history, attractive both to Cartier collectors and fans of classic watchmaking.

The photos form part of the description.