N. 102860264

Yves Saint Laurent - Gilt-Metal - Spilla
N. 102860264

Yves Saint Laurent - Gilt-Metal - Spilla
Vintage (likely 1970s - 1990s) Yves Saint Laurent rive gauche by Maison Gripoix brooch.
Maison Gripoix founded in 1869 is an atelier that produces a specific type of gilt-metal jewellery with “pâte de verre” (poured glass) style cabochons and has a distinct look. Gripoix has been the go-to Maison for high end costume jewellery produced for luxury houses Chanel Haute Couture, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Balenciaga.
Yves Saint Laurent and Maison Gripoix worked together most extensively in the 1970s - 1980s (and into the 1990s) when Loulou de la Falaise drove the creative direction of YSL jewellery made by Gripoix.
This piece is typical of both Yves Saint Laurent and Gripoix’s key design elements. Gripoix pieces are known for their rough, artistic style gilt-metal settings and for the special process where glass cabochons are poured directly into the setting. The specific colors of this piece, and the artistic Byzantine style, are very typical of Yves Saint Laurent.
This piece has no visible flaws - there is tarnishing and antiquing of the metal consistent with age, or may be part of the design. One of the red cabochons has a ‘ripple’ inside visible up close which is an effect of the cooling process of the glass during manufacture.
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