Brooch - 18 kt. Yellow gold, Shell

08
days
18
hours
06
minutes
05
seconds
Starting bid
€ 1
Reserve price not met
Laura Trevino
Expert
Selected by Laura Trevino

She has 15 years' auction experience, specialising in vintage jewellery from 1920 to 2000.

Estimate  € 1,500 - € 1,800
No bids placed

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This 18 kt yellow-gold brooch features a hand-carved shell cameo depicting Coriolanus, with a chased gold mount and a French hallmark.

AI-assisted summary

Description from the seller

Identification
Large Italian Shell Cameo Brooch - Historical Scene - 18K Gold Mount
Circa 1860-1880, Italy, probably Naples
Subject: This is not a standard mythological portrait. It's a historical cameo, "Coriolanus" scene. The Roman general Gaius Marcius Coriolanus in armor, holding a scroll, being implored by his wife, his mother and his children not to attack Rome.
The scene is recognizable by the military dress, the helmet on the pedestal, the draped interior and the supplicating women. These multi-figure narrative cameos were the most expensive and difficult to carve, reserved for the Grand Tour market.
Technique: Hand-carved sardonyx shell cameo, Cassis madagascariensis type.
Very high relief, almost in the round - the white layer is 3-4mm thick. Excellent detail: pleats of the dresses, armor embossing, carpet fringe, background architecture. No machine carving.
2. Mount and Marks
Mount: Oval bezel in yellow gold, with hand-chased decoration of scrolls and flowers on the side.
Hallmark: On your photo 3, on the pin stem, you have a clear French Eagle's head mark. This is the French hallmark for 18K gold (750/1000) used since 1838 for small works. The brooch was likely mounted in France or imported and hallmarked in France for sale.
Dimensions: Approx 55 x 43 mm for the cameo without pin. Based on your ruler photos.
Total weight: 18.65 g as per your scale - which includes gold + shell. This is heavy, confirms solid gold mount, not gold filled.
Closure: Old hinge and C-clasp pin with tubular hinge, typical 19th century.
3. Condition
Good antique condition.
• Cameo: No major cracks. Some minor wear and micro-abrasions on the highest relief points of the white layer, normal for age. Some dirt deposits in recesses, can be cleaned by a professional.
• Shell back: natural color variations and light growth lines visible, as expected.
• Mount: Gold with patina, some micro-scratches. Pin is straight and functional, hinge slightly loose but working. Engraving still crisp.
4. Dating and Origin
Authentic Victorian / Second Empire period.
The style of carving, the large oval, the subject, and the engraved gold frame are all typical of 1860-1880. This was the peak of cameo production for English and French aristocrats doing the Grand Tour in Italy.

Seller's Story

Ancient, vintage & signed jewelry. Since 1984, Piccadilly has been sharing its passion for jewelry that stands the test of time. We offer a selection of ancient, vintage and signed jewelry, chosen for their character, their history and their uniqueness. Each piece is studied with care to accompany you in your discovery and your choice. Come discover our pieces in-store at Piccadilly in the south of France.
Translated by Google Translate

Identification
Large Italian Shell Cameo Brooch - Historical Scene - 18K Gold Mount
Circa 1860-1880, Italy, probably Naples
Subject: This is not a standard mythological portrait. It's a historical cameo, "Coriolanus" scene. The Roman general Gaius Marcius Coriolanus in armor, holding a scroll, being implored by his wife, his mother and his children not to attack Rome.
The scene is recognizable by the military dress, the helmet on the pedestal, the draped interior and the supplicating women. These multi-figure narrative cameos were the most expensive and difficult to carve, reserved for the Grand Tour market.
Technique: Hand-carved sardonyx shell cameo, Cassis madagascariensis type.
Very high relief, almost in the round - the white layer is 3-4mm thick. Excellent detail: pleats of the dresses, armor embossing, carpet fringe, background architecture. No machine carving.
2. Mount and Marks
Mount: Oval bezel in yellow gold, with hand-chased decoration of scrolls and flowers on the side.
Hallmark: On your photo 3, on the pin stem, you have a clear French Eagle's head mark. This is the French hallmark for 18K gold (750/1000) used since 1838 for small works. The brooch was likely mounted in France or imported and hallmarked in France for sale.
Dimensions: Approx 55 x 43 mm for the cameo without pin. Based on your ruler photos.
Total weight: 18.65 g as per your scale - which includes gold + shell. This is heavy, confirms solid gold mount, not gold filled.
Closure: Old hinge and C-clasp pin with tubular hinge, typical 19th century.
3. Condition
Good antique condition.
• Cameo: No major cracks. Some minor wear and micro-abrasions on the highest relief points of the white layer, normal for age. Some dirt deposits in recesses, can be cleaned by a professional.
• Shell back: natural color variations and light growth lines visible, as expected.
• Mount: Gold with patina, some micro-scratches. Pin is straight and functional, hinge slightly loose but working. Engraving still crisp.
4. Dating and Origin
Authentic Victorian / Second Empire period.
The style of carving, the large oval, the subject, and the engraved gold frame are all typical of 1860-1880. This was the peak of cameo production for English and French aristocrats doing the Grand Tour in Italy.

Seller's Story

Ancient, vintage & signed jewelry. Since 1984, Piccadilly has been sharing its passion for jewelry that stands the test of time. We offer a selection of ancient, vintage and signed jewelry, chosen for their character, their history and their uniqueness. Each piece is studied with care to accompany you in your discovery and your choice. Come discover our pieces in-store at Piccadilly in the south of France.
Translated by Google Translate

Details

Era
1400-1900
Laboratory report
No laboratory report
Estimated period
1850-1900
Metal
Shell, Yellow gold
Brand jewellery
No
Fineness
18 kt.
Total weight
18.6 g
Condition
Good condition - used with some signs of wear
Gender
Women
Country of origin
Unknown
FranceVerified
3
Objects sold
pro

Disclaimer

Catawiki always aims to offer you the best possible buying experience. Our experts virtually review and select every object in line with our submission guidelines. While we strive to provide a detailed description and photographs of each jewellery object, discrepancies or inaccuracies may occur. It is your responsibility to review all of the information provided about an object, including the condition and description, before placing an order. Sellers are responsible for the information, pictures and description provided, including the quality, quantity and nature of the jewelry supplied. A small imperfection that cannot be seen in the photo but is included in the description is not a non-conformity. A Lab Report is not a guarantee, valuation or appraisal regarding the articles described therein. A Lab Report contains only the characteristics of an article described after it has been graded, tested, examined, and analyzed using the techniques and equipment used at the time of the examination from that specific Lab. The results of any other examination performed on the article may differ depending when, how, by whom and with which grading standard the article is examined. In addition, any changes and improvements in techniques and equipment that may have occurred which may enable the examiner to detect, among other things, the use of processes for altering the characteristics of an article which use was previously undetectable, does not automatically mean the object does not conform to its description.

Catawiki always aims to offer you the best possible buying experience. Our experts virtually review and select every object in line with our submission guidelines. While we strive to provide a detailed description and photographs of each jewellery object, discrepancies or inaccuracies may occur. It is your responsibility to review all of the information provided about an object, including the condition and description, before placing an order. Sellers are responsible for the information, pictures and description provided, including the quality, quantity and nature of the jewelry supplied. A small imperfection that cannot be seen in the photo but is included in the description is not a non-conformity. A Lab Report is not a guarantee, valuation or appraisal regarding the articles described therein. A Lab Report contains only the characteristics of an article described after it has been graded, tested, examined, and analyzed using the techniques and equipment used at the time of the examination from that specific Lab. The results of any other examination performed on the article may differ depending when, how, by whom and with which grading standard the article is examined. In addition, any changes and improvements in techniques and equipment that may have occurred which may enable the examiner to detect, among other things, the use of processes for altering the characteristics of an article which use was previously undetectable, does not automatically mean the object does not conform to its description.

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